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Camino Portuguese: Starting point to both Camino Portuguese Central and Coastal routes

Porto isn’t a city you just check off a list; it’s a city you feel in your knees – thanks to those never-ending, steep cobblestone streets. Spend your pre-Camino days drinking espresso or Super Bock on the riverfront, marvelling at the blue-and-white azulejos (tiles) decorating the church walls, and crossing the iconic Dom Luís I Bridge to Vila Nova de Gaia for a glass of authentic Port wine. Treat it as your baseline training—because once you start walking north, the rhythm changes completely.

The Fork in the Road: Coastal vs. Central

The Portuguese Way splits into two main routes out of the city:

  1. The Central Route: The classic historical path. It heads straight inland through vineyards, eucalyptus forests, and sleepy Roman-era towns like Ponte de Lima. It’s hillier, deeply traditional, and rich in rural culture.
  2. The Coastal Route: The modern variant. It hugs the Atlantic shoreline, steering you along kilometres of custom-built wooden boardwalks, past sandy dunes, old windmills, and vibrant fishing villages.

The Insider Tip: The exit out of central Porto along the inland Central Route can be heavily urbanized and industrial. We arrange a 10 km transfer through this area resulting in your first day becoming just more than 20km’s. For Coastal route you will then start at Matosinhos or Central route from the church plain in Maia.

You can also combine the two routes by doing the first day coastal route to Vila do Conde and then moving inland to Barcelos (my personal favourite choice).

GET YOUR FIRST STAMP IN PORTO

The brand new Pilgrims Office (opened in April 2026) is just a few steps from Sé do Porto (Porto Cathedral). Right at this marker, you take the few steps downhill to be welcomed by friendly Camino volunteers to give you your first stamp (I prefer this one to the one received from the unfriendly Cathedral staff!) You can even get a second beautiful embossed stamp for a small donativo.

CUISINE

On the French Way, you will eat a lot of Menú del Día (pork, potatoes, and eggs). On the Portuguese Coastal route, your fuel is often fresh off the boat. Think grilled sardines drizzled with olive oil, bacalhau (salted cod) prepared a dozen different ways, and steaming bowls of seafood rice paired with a crisp, slightly effervescent glass of local Vinho Verde (green wine). Yummy.

 Make sure to try:

  1. Sardines/Ptingish (preferably in season June – July)
  2. Bacalhau (cod fish)
  3. Francesinha sandwiches
  4. A Port tasting at the Ribeira district.
  5. Cashorinho (The Porto hot dog)
  6. And of course Pasteis de Nata!

The last 100 km’s into Santiago de Compostela

There are 2 options if you would prefer to walk only the last 100 km – the minimum requirement to receive your Compostela. On the Central route starting from TUI or Coastal route from Vigo. I personally prefer Tui.

Starting in Portugal and walking into Spain gives you a front-row seat to a beautiful cultural transition. You will watch the language morph from the soft, shushing tones of Portuguese to the crisp syllables of Spanish. You’ll cross the border in Spain: On the Central route, passing the picturesque ancient town of Valença before crossing the Minho River on foot by the stunning iron bridge. If the Coastal route was your choice,  a tiny ferry boat from Caminha to A Guarda will take you to Spain!

River Minho

Do in Spain as the Spaniards (or is it the Romans?) do

When travelling to Spain, immersing yourself in the local rhythm is part of the magic. Let’s dive into the fascinating history and modern reality of the siesta, along with a few other wonderful Spanish traditions you must experience.

When going to Spain, one little word is bound to pop up in almost every conversation: Siesta.

The Siesta: More Than Just a Nap

While it is an iconic Spanish tradition, the siesta actually has Roman origins. Under the Roman 12-hour daylight system, the sexta hora (sixth hour) marked the exact midpoint of the day. At this hour, most businesses, including courts and markets, closed their doors.

The Romans prioritised otium (leisure) over negotium (business), limiting official work to the mornings. After a light lunch, citizens retreated to the shade to escape the intense Mediterranean heat. A short nap was followed by a trip to the public baths for conversation, relaxation, and light exercise before the grand evening meal. Later, this midday rest period was reinforced by the Catholic Church’s midday prayer, Sext.

The Modern Siesta Today, the tradition of an afternoon break remains deeply embedded in Spanish culture, but the way it is spent has evolved. It’s a common misconception that all Spaniards sleep every afternoon. In fact, modern studies show that less than 18% of Spaniards nap daily. Instead, the hours between roughly 2:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. serve as a vital break from the heat and a way to balance a workday that often stretches late into the evening.

Key activities during the modern siesta include:

  • The Long Lunch: Enjoying the main meal of the day, often shared with family or friends.
  • Resting & Resetting: Relaxing at home, reading, or watching television.
  • Escaping the Heat: Commuting home to avoid the peak midday temperatures.
  • A Pause in Commerce: While larger restaurants and corporate businesses remain open, many small shops close, allowing employees to go home and rest.

Another wonderful Spanish tradition is El Paseo: The Art of the Stroll

As the afternoon cools, it’s time for another wonderful Spanish tradition: the Paseo. This is the Spanish term for a slow, leisurely, and social walk, typically taken in the late afternoon or early evening. A paseo is never about exercise; it is a cultural ritual centred on community connection. You will see it unfolding in public squares, tree-lined avenues, and pedestrian-friendly streets. Interestingly, the word also refers to the physical walkway itself (like a boulevard) and historically described the formal entrance march of bullfighters.

The Paseo in Practice:

  • Socialising: Families, couples, and friends walk together to chat, catch up on local news, and connect after the workday.
  • Strolling & Viewing: Wandering through city centres, parks, or along the promenade (paseo marítimo).
  • Tapas & Shopping: Breaking up the stroll by popping into local cafes, boutiques, or bars for a quick drink.
  • The Daily Reset: Lasting for a few hours (especially from 5:00 p.m. onwards), this ritual serves as the perfect prelude to Spain’s famously late dinners.

This brings us to our third beautiful Spanish tradition: El Aperitivo

Spanish culture is inextricably linked to its food and drink, best enjoyed in bustling town plazas.

You can’t visit Spain without experiencing a Tapa. Derived from the verb tapar (“to cover”), these small plates of food range from simple snacks to elaborate miniature dishes, and are traditionally served free with your drink! This ties into the broader concept of the Aperitivo—enjoying a beverage accompanied by light bites like olives, cheese, potato chips, or cured ham to stimulate the appetite before a meal.

In smaller towns, you might hear the phrase sentarse a la fresca (“sitting in the cool”). This is the time-honoured tradition of gathering outside in the cool evening air, often accompanied by a refreshing drink.

And speaking of drinks, we cannot forget La hora de vermut (“The Vermouth Hour”). Traditionally taking place just before lunch between 12:00 p.m. and 2:00 p.m., this specific time is dedicated to sipping sweet, botanical vermouth. It marks the start of the afternoon with an aperitif believed to aid digestion before a heavy lunch. La hora de vermut is all about hitting pause in the middle of the day to enjoy life with

friends. (Of course, you don’t have to limit yourself to midday—we love enjoying vermouth during our own nighttime tapas crawls!)

Vivo El Apertivo!

On your Camino, make sure to pause and immerse yourself in the local rhythm by enjoying a siesta, taking a paseo, and indulging in afternoon aperitivos.

And when you visit Santiago de Compostela, make sure to go for a paseo in Parque da Alameda, beautifully situated halfway between the University Campus and the historic centre where the Cathedral resides.

While strolling through the park, keep an eye out for the famous statue of the two colourful ladies, known as As Marias! You can read more about the fascinating story of these two sisters in our blog post: “Must Visits in Santiago de Compostela.”

Walking through Tuscany

During September 2025, I walked the popular section of the Via Francigena from Siena to Viterbo with 8 like-minded pilgrims and now new friends! The Via Francigena is an ancient road and historic pilgrimage route that stretches across Europe, often referred to as the "Camino to Rome." It traditionally runs from the cathedral city of Canterbury, England, through France and Switzerland, all the way to Rome, Italy. Some variations continue south from Rome to Apulia, where pilgrims would embark for the Holy Land.

Our group started our journey in the medieval masterpiece of Siena, from where the trail follows the iconic rolling hills of Tuscany and the captivating landscapes of the Val d'Orcia. Along the way, you pass through beautiful towns like San Quirico d'Orcia and Radicofani. Every day offered a rich blend of history and stunning scenery.

Leaving Siena

Tuscan Road

Typical Scenery en-route

Leaving San Quiroci d'Orcia

Crossing into the Lazio region, the terrain changes, featuring volcanic landscapes and the beautiful Lake Bolsena - now one of my favourite towns in Italy. We ended our 12 day pilgrimage in Viterbo, the "City of Popes," with its well-preserved medieval quarter, providing a truly enriching pilgrim experience. Viterbo's Pilgrim Quarter blew my mind completely. It's considered one of the largest and best-preserved medieval city centres in Europe, with its original street plan, towers, and stone buildings remaining largely intact since the 13th century.

Remember, when you visit Viterbo, to pop into the Ospitale del Pellegrino marking the beginning of the last 100km to Rome! They will treat you to not just one, but THREE stamps here!

Bagno Vignoni dating back to the year 1000

Ancient Roman Road

Pilgrims rest spot

On completion of 100km on the Via Francigena, you qualify for a Testimonium, similar to the Compostela received in Santiago - but this can only be collected in Rome. So off we went to Rome! But, as my 2025 unlucky streak would have it, on Monday, 22 September, all public transport in Italy were halted due to public strikes! So, taxi's to Rome was the only option. Thank goodness for travel insurance!

Rome was even busier than usual, as 2025 is a Holy Year. Here are a few tips when visiting Rome: Pre-book all tours, this includes a visit to Vatican City to collect your Testimonium, even if you don't plan to visit St. Peter's Cathedral or the Vatican museums. Rome is also the "pick-pocket" capital, so be vigilant. And the best gelato shops? Look for those without too many colourful flavours! The natural-coloured gelato, kept in closed stainless steel containers, is the real deal!

Old city Montefiascone

On the way to Acqupendente

We did it!

Rain in Rome

Accommodation and signage infrastructure are generally reliable along the Via Francigena, but there aren't many stops en route. Therefore, you need to carry your lunch, snacks and enough water with you each day. Luckily, all our hotels were very close to supermarkets, so our daily routine became: recover, shower, do laundry, head to the local Coop to restock, and then off to the piazza for a cold Prosecco or Aperol spritz!

Pilgrims Longtable Dinners

Aperol Sprits in San Quirco d'Orcia

I fell in love with Italy all over again and cannot wait to assist many pilgrims walking sections of this rewarding route. Make sure the Via Francigena is part of your future pilgrimage plans!

Bolsena Cathedral

Hot springs in Torrenieri

On the way to Gallina

Trevi Fountain

Camino Finisterre: The route to the end of the world!

If you've ever dreamt of walking beyond the “end” of the Camino de Santiago, let me introduce you to the stunning Camino Finisterre-Muxía.

This lesser-known yet deeply rewarding route is often seen as a spiritual and symbolic extension of the Camino de Santiago. After completing this route myself in May 2025, I can wholeheartedly say this journey is worth every step.

The trail leads from Santiago de Compostela to the dramatic Atlantic coastline of Galicia, finishing in the small town of Finisterre—or Fisterra, as it's called in the local Galician language. The name itself comes from the Latin Finis Terrae, meaning “End of the Earth,” a nod to the ancient Roman belief that this windswept cape was the westernmost point of the known world.

But the adventure doesn’t have to stop there...

Many pilgrims choose to continue even further to the tranquil fishing village of Muxía, about 50 km north of Finisterre. This leg adds another two days (50km) of walking through coastal beauty and peaceful countryside. And for those feeling especially inspired, there’s the option to complete the full loop—Santiago to Finisterre to Muxía and then back to Santiago. Not only does this offer a full-circle experience, but it now also qualifies for a Compostela certificate upon returning to Santiago!

What drew me most to the Camino Finisterre was how approachable it is. At around 90 kilometers, it’s shorter than the main Camino routes and generally considered easier to walk — making it a perfect choice for beginners or anyone looking for a rewarding but less demanding adventure.

Picture – Praia Langosteira: A beautiful, long sandy beach as you approach Fisterra, historically used for purification rituals by pilgrims.

The trail itself is a feast for the senses. You’ll wander through enchanting forests straight out of a fairy tale, then suddenly catch a breathtaking glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean. That moment when the sea appears on the horizon is pure magic, and the excitement of reaching the West Coast of Europe starts to build.

When you reach the lively town centre of Finisterre, a warm welcome awaits in the form of cozy cafés and inviting restaurants—perfect spots to recharge before claiming your ‘Fisterrana,’ the Camino Finisterre’s own version of the Compostela certificate.

But don’t stop there! Just 2 more kilometres will bring you to the iconic lighthouse and epic “KM 0” marker, where every pilgrim deserves to pause for that unforgettable photo.

Whether you plan to walk the Camino Finisterre-Muxía as a stand-alone pilgrimage or as a meaningful extension after finishing in Santiago, trust me, this route deserves a top spot on your bucket list!

Picture: Lighthouse of Finisterre: An iconic structure guiding ships, it stands as a symbol of hope and safety on a historically treacherous coastline (known as the Costa da Morte, or Coast of Death).

 

Gastronomy on the Camino

How is the food on the Camino?

The Camino de Santiago winds through diverse regions, each offering a unique taste of local culture and culinary traditions. From hearty stews and fresh seafood to artisanal queso (cheese), the iconic jamón (ham), and of course, world-famous vinos (wines). Every meal is a celebration of Spain’s rich heritage.

Join us on a gastronomic journey along the Camino de Santiago, where the flavours of Spain come together along this historic pilgrimage route.

Breakfasts

Desayunos (breakfasts) on the Camino are typically light. You may need to adjust if you’re accustomed to heavy, protein- or carb-rich mornings. A typical breakfast includes coffee, tea, or orange juice, paired with a pastry, tortilla de patata (Spanish omelette made with eggs and potatoes), or toast topped with a variety of options like cold cuts, cheese, jam, butter, or tomato with olive oil.

Pilgrim’s Meal vs Menú del Día

The Menú del Día, or “menu of the day,” is a fixed-price meal served by Spanish restaurants during weekday lunch, which is typically one of the largest meals of the day in Spain. Known for being both affordable and hearty, it offers a satisfying and budget-friendly option for locals.

The Menú del Día originated in 1960s Spain during a time of economic hardship. According to legend, General Francisco Franco—often called “Generalissimo”—introduced the idea in 1964 (or at least took credit for it). The concept was to provide workers with an inexpensive yet filling midday meal during the workweek. As a result, the menú del día was not traditionally offered on weekends, a custom that persists today.

A typical Menú del Día consists of three courses:

  • El Primer Plato (first dish), where you choose from two or three options;
  • El Segundo Plato (second dish), again with two or three choices;
  • El Postre (dessert).

Bread and a drink—usually water, a glass of wine, or a caña (small beer)—are included in the set price, making it a great value for a filling meal.

A Menú del peregrino (pilgrim’s meal) on the Camino de Santiago typically refers to a set menu offered at restaurants along the route. Almost the same as the menu del dia, it usually includes a simple, hearty meal with options like soup, salad, a main course of meat or fish, bread, and dessert and are also served in some restaurants for supper. Often offered at a reasonable price, this meal is designed to provide nourishment for pilgrims on their journey. In Spanish, it’s commonly referred to as a menú del peregrino.

Drinks

When ordering a menú del peregrino or menú del día, a free drink is always included, such as a soft drink, a glass of wine, beer, or water.

Vino (wine)
Spain is a global leader in wine production, with more vineyards than any other country. Drinking wine with meals is a longstanding tradition, deeply embedded in Spanish culture, and remains an integral part of modern dining customs. In pilgrim’s restaurants and cafés, you can choose from vino blanco (white wine) or vino tinto (red wine).

Cerveza (Beer)
Cerveza is another popular choice, with brands like Estrella Galicia, Alhambra, and San Miguel being favourites among locals and pilgrims alike.

Café & té (Coffee and tea)
Coffee in Spain is varied and delicious, with plenty of options to choose from. Popular choices include café con leche (coffee with milk, similar to a flat white), café cortado (a shot of espresso with a splash of steamed milk), and if you prefer your coffee without milk, simply ask for a café americano.

Agua (Water)
The tap water in Spain is safe to drink, and you can refill bottles at public fountains, cafes, and other spots along the Camino. However, I personally prefer to buy bottled water from the nearest supermarcado (supermarket) for convenience.

A Few Personal Favorites

Jamón (Ham)
Jamón, Spain’s renowned cured ham, has evolved from a basic preservation method to a high culinary art form. The two most famous varieties are prosciutto and serrano ham. Both are made from cured pork legs, traditionally kept whole on stands and sliced paper-thin (often by hand). These hams are rich in flavour, with a velvety texture and a sweet fat that melts on the tongue.

When considering your next charcuterie board, you may wonder whether to choose prosciutto or serrano. While they are often made from the same breed of pig, they are distinct in several ways. The primary difference lies in the pigs’ diets. Prosciutto pigs are typically fed corn, fruit, and whey, while serrano pigs feast on acorns. This dietary difference influences the color of the meat: prosciutto is a lighter pink, while serrano is a deeper, richer red. Both hams are salt-cured, but prosciutto is aged in a more humid environment, which keeps it supple and the fat sweet. Serrano, on the other hand, undergoes a drier aging process, which enhances its texture and saltiness.

Pulpo (Octopus)
Pulpo, the Spanish word for octopus, is a beloved dish, especially in the northwestern region of Galicia, where it is a local specialty and a common catch for fishermen. The dish consists of tender, simply cooked octopus served with boiled potatoes, olive oil, and a sprinkle of sweet Spanish paprika, making it a simple yet flavourful treat.

Gazpacho
Gazpacho is a vibrant, refreshing dish made from the ripest tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, bread, peppers, and cucumber, all blended until silky smooth. Chilled and served in bowls or glasses, it’s a summer favourite in Andalucía, where locals enjoy it daily. In tapas bars, you’ll often find a jug of gazpacho on the counter, ready to be poured at any time.

 

Paella
The traditional paella Valenciana includes chicken or rabbit, saffron, runner beans, and butter beans. However, the star ingredient is the rice—typically bomba or Calasparra varieties grown on Spain’s east coast. These rice grains are known for their ability to absorb all the rich flavours of the dish. Interestingly, paella is not commonly found in Galicia, making it a rare sight along the Camino.

 

 

Tortilla Española
Simple yet delicious, tortilla española consists of eggs, potatoes, and onions—though some purists argue that adding onions is a culinary offense! The potatoes and onions are slow-fried in olive oil, then mixed with beaten eggs, allowing the flavours to meld before being cooked. While variations may include chorizo, ham, spinach, peas, or courgettes, the basic version is a staple at breakfast tables and cafés across Spain.

 

 

Patatas Bravas
Arguably the most iconic of tapas, patatas bravas can vary widely across Spain, but they all feature crispy chunks of fried potatoes. In Madrid, the signature bravas sauce is made with sweet and spicy pimentón (Spanish paprika), olive oil, flour, and stock—never tomatoes. Some variations include garlic or a splash of fino sherry, while others guard their secret ingredients closely.

 

 

Padron Peppers
Padrón peppers are small, about 5 cm long and have an elongated shape. They are often picked, sold and eaten unripe, when they are still green. The taste is mild, but some exemplars can be quite hot. This property has given rise to the popular Galician aphorism “Os pementos de Padrón, uns pican e outros non” (“Padrón peppers, some are hot, some are not”).

 

 

 

Tarta de Santiago
Tarta de Santiago, a traditional Spanish almond cake, is one of Spain’s most beloved desserts. Made with ground almonds, sugar, and eggs, this simple yet delicious cake is quick to prepare, moist, and naturally gluten-free, making it a favourite treat for many.

 

 

 

dietary preferences

I often get asked about dietary preferences on the camino. Yes, vegaterian and vegan options are usually served in most restaurants but as a rule vegetables as such are not as frequently found as on South African menus. Your best option is to visit the nearest supermarcado (supermarket) and stock up on some fresh fruit and greens if this is your preferred diet. Remember that the ‘pilgrim way’ is to be thankful for a meal. Therefore some service provider’s will frown on a dietary request.

In Spain there is a well-known saying: “Con pan y vino se anda el camino” With bread and wine, the road is travelled.

Disfruta tu comida
Enjoy your meal!

What does Camino preparation mean?

If you don’t exercise, walk, or cycle regularly, we suggest starting training for the Camino at least three months before the planned pilgrimage. The earlier you start, the better.

When you book your Camino through us, we become your Camino partners. Part of our deal is to assist you in getting well-prepared, both physically, mentally, and gear-wise.

Our pre-pilgrimage assistance includes

  • 12-week exercise program for either walking or cycling.
  • Comprehensive “What to pack” suggestions and tips.
  • Camino preparation sessions on Google Meet.
  • Camino preparation video links.
  • Schengen Visa advice and relevant documentation.

Your Pre-pilgrimage obligations

  • Choose your route and dates. Book your flights and trigger your travel insurance.
  • Make sure you have the right gear: hiking equipment & clothing.
  • Achieve fitness, in both body and mind.

Cycling, or Walking a Camino?

You don’t have to be a trained athlete to enjoy one of our cycling adventures. Our cycling routes and options range from laid-back-easy to challenging. A little bit of saddle fitness is all you need. We also offer e-bikes on almost every route to back you up on the steep spots! Cycling is a great way to cover more ground in less time. Typical average distances per day are between 40-60km. This is no more than 3 – 4 hours in the saddle. Enjoy the landscapes with its varied terrains without spilling too much sweet. As usual, we will transport your bags and secure your accommodation. Travel in style! It’s memorable fun.

How does a Cycling Camino work?

We will consult with you early in your Camino planning to understand your cycling needs and wants. A shortened list of the choices is as follows:

  • Small, Medium or Large Bikes,
  • Mountain Bike Standard or Premium,
  • E-bike with 70-90km or 110-130km range.

All bikes have front shocks with hard-tails and the pedals are dual-platform (one side for clip-on and the other for normal shoes).
Your selected pre-booked bike will wait for you at your first hotel. When you arrive at the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela at the end of your journey, you simply return the bike to the rental company’s offices, a stone’s throw from the Cathedral.

Customarily, each bike comes with a pannier rack (which can hold 15kg), bottle holder, bell, safety retro-reflectors and a bicycle lock. Additionally, the pannier rack incorporates a tool kit containing: an extra tube, pump, bike multi-purpose Allen key, pedals key, tyre levers and a patch kit. Extras such as helmets and daily break-down assistance can be added. Yes, for sure. You must be able to repair a puncture or chain-slip.

Let’s explore Italy!

Imagine walking through medieval and Renaissance hilltop towns in Tuscany and Umbria in the heart of Italy. These ancient pilgrim trails weave through rolling cypress-lined Tuscan hills, past local vineyards and leafy olive groves heading to the second most famous Christian pilgrimage destination: The Vatican City in Rome.

We offer different options on the two most famous routes: The Via Francigena and The Way of St Francis also known as the La Via di Francesco. You can book your own self-guided and tailor-made trip, or join a group.

 

The two Italian pilgrimage routes should not be confused. The Via Francigena follows roughly around 2050km starting in Canterbury England, all the way to Rome, through France, Switzerland and Italy. We currently focus on the last 400km section through the Tuscany and Lazio regions – from Lucca to Rome. Much like the Camino de Santiago ends at the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, the Via Francigena ends at the Vatican City in Rome.

On the other hand, the Way of St. Francis or La Via di Francesco is a modern Italian pilgrimage, that celebrates the beloved Patron Saint of Italy, the founder of the Franciscan order of monks and best known as St. Francis of Assisi. This humble man who lived over 800 years ago, was a lover of animals and nature, used “Sister Mother Earth” as his monastery, and lived the simplest and most dedicated of lives.

The route to Assisi has two options: leaving from the North (Florence to Sansepolgro or Sansepolgro to Assisi) OR from the South (Rome to Rieti or Reiti to Assisi).

With spectacular vistas, the weathered earth-coloured roofs of stone houses and the most beautiful landscapes, you will be transported back to the 13th century, the time of St. Francis.

IMPORTANT to consider

Both these routes are quite challenging and only suitable for seasoned hikers. Challenges are mainly related to stage length and steep altitude differences.

My Via Podiensis Adventure – Marina Loubser

I did my first Camino in 2017 and made use of the services of Yolandi  @ Stap die Camino Vellies na die Vreemde. I was hooked after this and call myself a Caminoholic. Long-distance walking and Camino life became my new passion & lifestyle.  My first route was from Sarria to Santiago, in 2018 Porto to Santiago ( coastal route), 2019 I accompanied a group from Sarria to Santiago. Then of course the other C word halted us all for a while and in 2022 I did the section from Leon to Santiago. In 2023 my lifelong love for France, love for travel and need to explore, got me interested in the route through the South of France, the Via Podiensis. I walked the first four days of the Via Podiensis from Le Puy to Aumont Aubrac and then transferred to Saint Jean Pied de Port. From here I walked the first four days of the Camino Frances to Pamplona. Of course, crossing the Pyrenees mountains was such a beautiful and special experience. One which I will treasure forever.

In 2024 I decided to go back on the Via Podiensis walking day 1 again out of Le Puy and further from where I left off in Aumont Aubrac ending in Figeac. I have fallen in love with this very special route even though it is more challenging than my previous Camino in Spain and Portugal. Leaving the most beautiful town of Le Puy from the Cathedrale Notre-Dame with the view from the steps over the cobbled streets edged in my brain forever! Then crossing the Aubrac Plato, through the most beautiful lush forests, walking through the Lot valley after crossing the Lot river. Daily passing through medieval towns such as Saint Chely, Saint Come d’Olt & Estaing becomes addictive. Whilst researching, I decided to have a rest day in Conques. The latter has been classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France. And I can fully understand why. Although a very popular tourist town today, time has stood still here. Well worth a visit and a rest day.

Leaving Conques, I had three more days to go to my end destination Figeac near the Cele River. I decided to break up the last day and took a bit of a detour ending up in a quaint commune called Felzins. Oh, what a pleasure it was to stay in a beautifully restored 200-year-old farmhouse owned and run by a super friendly Belgium couple. After a long day of walking, being able to swim in their pool overlooking the French countryside and having dinner with them in the main house was pure bliss.

Reaching Figeac, I took a day tour to another one of the officially declared most beautiful villages in France, Saint Cirq La Poppie. This was the perfect way to end this stage of the Via Podiensis. I was in awe.

The friendliness and hospitality on this route are one of the many reasons I look forward to returning for the next stages. Oh and did I mention the French cuisine and wine?

By far the most beautiful route in my opinion. I could go on and on about the Via Podiensis but would prefer that interested walkers experience this for themselves.

With the highly professional assistance of Yolandi, I can highly recommend this as an option.

100 Kilometers in 4 Adventurous Days

Embarking on the Remarkable Journey from Le-Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

We did it! What an amazing experience, but believe me, this route is reserved for seasoned and exceptionally fit travellers. The concept: “after every downhill, there will be an uphill,” takes on a vivid meaning along the Chemin Le-Puy, also known as GR 65, or for modern-day pilgrims, the Via Podiensis in France.

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The trail is impressively marked with the characteristic white and red bands, symbolizing the extensive French long-distance hiking routes known as the Grande Randonnées. Therefore, unlike the Camino de Santiago, where pilgrims uniformly move in one direction, on the Via Podiensis, you might encounter fellow hikers coming towards you at times.

This journey commences amidst the volcanic splendour of the Velay mountains, traverses the serene expanse of the Aubrac Plateau, meanders through the picturesque Lot river valley, and skirts the enchanting brandy vineyards of Armagnac, concluding in the captivating Basque region of the Pyrenees, where the Camino Francés embarks. I refer to this unique pilgrimage as the “Two Beginnings Camino”: the first 100 kilometres of the Podiensis followed by the initial 100 kilometres of the Camino Francés, commencing from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and in our case, ending in Pamplona. I’ll save more about that part of our journey for my upcoming post.

Much like the renowned Camino Francés in Spain, numerous segments of the Chemin are honoured with UNESCO World Heritage recognition, acknowledging their pivotal role in facilitating religious and cultural exchange during the later Middle Ages. Notably, the most formidable stretch of this route appears to be the initial ten days, characterized by the most challenging ascents and descents. Indeed, I can attest to this first-hand!”

Much like the renowned Camino Francés, the Via Podiensis has its roots deeply embedded in medieval texts. The earliest documented pilgrimage to Santiago from regions beyond the Pyrenees can be traced back to Bishop Godescalc of Le Puy-en-Velay, who embarked on this spiritual journey in the years 950-951 AD. However, the idea that Le Puy would become the starting point for pilgrims en route to Santiago primarily emerged during the 20th century. This transformation was greatly facilitated by the establishment of a long-distance hiking route in the 1970s, known as the GR®65. This modern-day trail faithfully recreated the historical pilgrim’s route from Le Puy to the Spanish border.

Our Journey started on the 22nd of September 2023. We started the journey appropriately attending the 07:00 am pilgrims mass, a truly wonderful experience! and when our group of eight intrepid travellers commenced our pilgrimage adventure with a challenging uphill climb out of Le-Puy-En-Velay. And yes, the higher you ascend, the more breathtaking the views become. Le-Puy boasts a collection of remarkable monuments that tower above the picturesque cityscape, thanks to the region’s volcanic geological features. Within a few kilometres, you have the most spectacular views over the city!

Day one of our journey took us from Le-Puy to Saint Privat D’Alier, covering a lengthy yet exhilarating distance of 24 kilometres. Our first break only came after a demanding 10 kilometres at the Eglise Saint-Christophe-sur-Dolaizon church. In this quaint village, we encountered a public toilet and only one bar, where the bartender raised his eyebrow at our request for coffee. At 11:00 am all his other customers were having a mid-morning beer or glass of wine! It quickly became evident that coffee stops along the way were not as abundant as those found on the Camino routes. Thus, Tip number one: Bring a coffee flask and some zip-lock bags to pack your own mid-way snacks. Breakfast in France is usually a croissant, crepes, sometimes cheese, yoghurt and apple mouse. So if you need protein, do stock up at the local café.

The final 2 kilometres presented a steep downhill descent on treacherously loose gravel. Tip number two: Bring two hiking poles! Walking the Chemin Le-Puy without these essential companions would be a dangerous challenge.

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Saint Privat D’Allier, a charming little town, offered limited dinner options. Pizzas, baguettes, cheese, and ham from the local café on the corner, is the go-to here. We opted for the latter and had a fun “hotel room picnic”. This leads us to Tip number three: Bring a corkscrew from home – wine is readily available in France, but screwtops are nowhere to be found!

Day two, as we were warned, proved to be quite the challenge. Normally a 20-kilometer stretch may not seem daunting, but we soon discovered that appearances can be deceiving. Our journey from the previous day’s descent continued for about 2.5 kilometres before we reached a brief plateau, offering a “breath catch” moment. Then comes a formidable ascent that stretches over a relentless 8 kilometres. This uphill climb soared 800 meters in total elevation. Some advice: Begin your day quite early, and take it slow. Ensure you have an ample supply of water and snacks with you. What’s intriguing about this route is the “WC’s” (toilets) along the way. Every so often, you’ll encounter a wooden shack marked with a WC sign. Surprisingly, these “dry toilets” are environmentally friendly, quite clean and actually odour-free.

The next two days continue to pose challenges in terms of refreshment stops; they are few and far between, almost non-existent. Therefore, Tip number 4: Stock up on refreshments for your hike the day before. Bringing snacks from South Africa is not advisable, as the luggage transfer limit is set at 13 kilograms per day, making it impossible to transport loads of snacks with you. But all the villages have ‘supermarchés’ so buying fresh fruit, baguettes, cheese etc. is very easy.

We concluded the first part of our “Two Beginnings Camino” in Aumont-Aubrac, a stunning town that stands out as a highlight along the route. However, our journey did not end without a minor hiccup. We received notice the day prior that our train for the following day had been cancelled due to strikes – a typical occurrence here in France. So, I mustered my best French to explain my predicament to the lovely and friendly lady at the tourism office. She reassured me, saying, “This is quite usual for us. But do not worry, a bus will come to pick you up. The timing has changed slightly, but you will not be left behind!” And indeed, the bus arrived! Hence, here’s Tip number 5: Don’t stress about train cancellations in France. It’s rather common and you won’t find yourself stranded.

In summary, the first 100 kilometres of the Via Podiensis were marked by challenging terrain, but the exquisite French countryside more than compensated for the difficulties. Croissants, baguettes, cheese, wine – the French cuisine and lifestyle are truly captivating. It was a delightful experience. Now, on to Spain and my beloved Camino Francés!

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