During September 2025, I walked the popular section of the Via Francigena from Siena to Viterbo with 8 like-minded pilgrims and now new friends! The Via Francigena is an ancient road and historic pilgrimage route that stretches across Europe, often referred to as the "Camino to Rome." It traditionally runs from the cathedral city of Canterbury, England, through France and Switzerland, all the way to Rome, Italy. Some variations continue south from Rome to Apulia, where pilgrims would embark for the Holy Land.
Our group started our journey in the medieval masterpiece of Siena, from where the trail follows the iconic rolling hills of Tuscany and the captivating landscapes of the Val d'Orcia. Along the way, you pass through beautiful towns like San Quirico d'Orcia and Radicofani. Every day offered a rich blend of history and stunning scenery.
Leaving Siena
Tuscan Road
Typical Scenery en-route
Leaving San Quiroci d'Orcia
Crossing into the Lazio region, the terrain changes, featuring volcanic landscapes and the beautiful Lake Bolsena - now one of my favourite towns in Italy. We ended our 12 day pilgrimage in Viterbo, the "City of Popes," with its well-preserved medieval quarter, providing a truly enriching pilgrim experience. Viterbo's Pilgrim Quarter blew my mind completely. It's considered one of the largest and best-preserved medieval city centres in Europe, with its original street plan, towers, and stone buildings remaining largely intact since the 13th century.
Remember, when you visit Viterbo, to pop into the Ospitale del Pellegrino marking the beginning of the last 100km to Rome! They will treat you to not just one, but THREE stamps here!
Bagno Vignoni dating back to the year 1000
Ancient Roman Road
Pilgrims rest spot
On completion of 100km on the Via Francigena, you qualify for a Testimonium, similar to the Compostela received in Santiago - but this can only be collected in Rome. So off we went to Rome! But, as my 2025 unlucky streak would have it, on Monday, 22 September, all public transport in Italy were halted due to public strikes! So, taxi's to Rome was the only option. Thank goodness for travel insurance!
Rome was even busier than usual, as 2025 is a Holy Year. Here are a few tips when visiting Rome: Pre-book all tours, this includes a visit to Vatican City to collect your Testimonium, even if you don't plan to visit St. Peter's Cathedral or the Vatican museums. Rome is also the "pick-pocket" capital, so be vigilant. And the best gelato shops? Look for those without too many colourful flavours! The natural-coloured gelato, kept in closed stainless steel containers, is the real deal!
Old city Montefiascone
On the way to Acqupendente
We did it!
Rain in Rome
Accommodation and signage infrastructure are generally reliable along the Via Francigena, but there aren't many stops en route. Therefore, you need to carry your lunch, snacks and enough water with you each day. Luckily, all our hotels were very close to supermarkets, so our daily routine became: recover, shower, do laundry, head to the local Coop to restock, and then off to the piazza for a cold Prosecco or Aperol spritz!
Pilgrims Longtable Dinners
Aperol Sprits in San Quirco d'Orcia
I fell in love with Italy all over again and cannot wait to assist many pilgrims walking sections of this rewarding route. Make sure the Via Francigena is part of your future pilgrimage plans!
Bolsena Cathedral
Hot springs in Torrenieri
On the way to Gallina
Trevi Fountain
Elke mens moet die Camino gaan stap.. dis n ongelooflike ondervinding, dit sal jou lewe verander…ja ja, almal wat dit al gestap het sê so, en hulle is reg. Dit was gelukkig ook op my emmerskop lysie en in Julie het ons groot stap uiteindelik gerealiseer. Elke dag se stap, ure van stil wees en tyd om te dink, maar meer nog, tyd om net te fokus op die stap, tree vir tree fokus die pad, die natuur die pragtige landskap, die klein dorpies en natuurlik die mense, wat ‘n ongelooflike 216 km ervaring! Ons het baie kans gehad om te dink, oor dankbaarheid, oor ‘n meer eenvoudige lewenswyse, om ligter te lewe, en n paar ander temas wat Ernst daagliks voorgestel het. Die stap ervaring was selfs beter as wat ek in my wildste drome kon droom!
