From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago de Compostela & on to Muxia!
It happens like this: you hear about the Camino, and one day you just decide, “I’m ready”. The day finally came. I called my friend Brother Daniel, who had walked the Camino the year before, and he suggested I get in touch with the team from ‘Stap Die Camino’.
Within a week, the dream turned real. With help from the amazing trio—Yolandi, Michelle, and Marina—the dates were set, flights booked, insurance sorted, and every detail of my trip planned. From train tickets and bus connections to luggage transfers, accommodation, and daily walking notes, everything was handled with incredible care. They thought of things before I even knew I’d need them. All I had to do was pack my backpack, show up, and trust the journey. Yolandi set up a video call with practical travel tips and advice. I also joined a few Camino Facebook groups to learn from pilgrims already on the trail.
10 April, I flew to Paris, connection flight to Biarritz, and took the train to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Freedom. I just needed to make sure my 14 kg suitcase was at reception by 8am and that I arrived at my next stop before 17h00.
As I settled into the daily pilgrim rhythm, my steps got lighter. I stopped to watch vultures circling in the blue sky, filled my water bottles at fountains, admired statues, lit candles in churches, and just soaked in the quiet holiness of it all. Along the way I listened to unfamiliar bird calls, searched for frogs in ponds, noticed stork nests tangled in church bells, and paused often for coffee breaks.
Spain gives each pilgrim space to find their own way. It’s a kind of simple, honest freedom. We all came from different parts of the world, but for the same reason—to walk, to reflect, to just be. If you keep an open mind and stay curious each day, the magic really does show up.
Along the way, I unexpectedly met wine makers, professors, estate agents, students, healthcare workers, entertainers, civil servants, nuclear engineers, HR specialists, entrepreneurs, artists, nuns, and priests.
On a cold rainy day, I met an alchemist while sitting on a doorstep across from his house in the rain. I met JourneyMan from America, who organises a labyrinth festival in Palas de Rei and travels between villages donating guitars to pilgrims. On the road to Astorga, Josss invited me to taste the wine he makes.
I walked through fields of dandelions, blowing wishes into the wind with a pilgrim whose name I never asked.
I met Karyn, who collects tiny mosaic tiles and places them on Camino distance markers. She became a dear friend. I met Thomas, who has been walking the Camino for eight years. Everything he owns fits in his backpack. I met LavenderRose. We explored Burgos together and even rode the carousel, surrounded by lights, music, and colour. She asked my trail name. “Firefly,” I said.
On my way to Muxía, I met Louis sitting under a tree with a shoe falling apart. We fixed the shoe with gorilla tape and walked to the next village, we sat on the balcony like old friends having lunch. He’s a lecturer in Santiago—a thoughtful friend with real depth and wisdom. I met Samantha from Switzerland beside a bowl of holy water in a cathedral. I met José Junior and José Senior playing chess outside my room. I shared my pure cacao drink with Bruna from Mexico. I met true Ela during mass. Shudi, Dino and I had fun picking cherries on the way to Ponferrada.
And finally, I stood inside Santiago Cathedral as the Botafumeiro swung through the air. Everyone watched in silence as prayers of hope, gratitude, and forgiveness rose with the incense.
The Camino taught me something simple. Opportunities are always there. The yellow arrows quietly remind you that you’re exactly where you need to be. Pilgrims become family. Churches welcome you in. Even the smallest villages somehow serve the best coffee.
All you need is the courage to take the first step. The rest unfolds in ways more magical than you could ever plan. The Camino shows its true colours… you have to be outside to notice the rainbow.
The Portuguese Way splits into two main routes out of the city:
Elke mens moet die Camino gaan stap.. dis n ongelooflike ondervinding, dit sal jou lewe verander…ja ja, almal wat dit al gestap het sê so, en hulle is reg. Dit was gelukkig ook op my emmerskop lysie en in Julie het ons groot stap uiteindelik gerealiseer. Elke dag se stap, ure van stil wees en tyd om te dink, maar meer nog, tyd om net te fokus op die stap, tree vir tree fokus die pad, die natuur die pragtige landskap, die klein dorpies en natuurlik die mense, wat ‘n ongelooflike 216 km ervaring! Ons het baie kans gehad om te dink, oor dankbaarheid, oor ‘n meer eenvoudige lewenswyse, om ligter te lewe, en n paar ander temas wat Ernst daagliks voorgestel het. Die stap ervaring was selfs beter as wat ek in my wildste drome kon droom!
